Journal Archive
December 2001
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Last Stop in South America! | 12.23.01 @ 10:52 AM EST |
It´s hard to believe that we have almost finished our traveling in South America. We spent the last two days in and around Quito, and are feeling really sad that we didn´t spend more time in Ecuador. Though Ecuador is a very small country, the ability to drive in one day from the beach through snow capped mountains, and end up in the rain forest has us believing that there is still so much to see. The brief time here has left us with fantasies of a return vistit where we would explore the country by car.
We drove from Mancora, Peru to Guayaquil and were struck by the wonderful transformation of the landscape from dry, dusty, dirt hills to beautiful lush green bannana and rice fields. From Guayaquil we flew to Quito and have had a great time taking in the beautiful mountains that surround the city.
Yesterday we visited two awesome indigenous markets in the towns of Otavolo and Cotacatchi, about 2 hours outside Quito. We had our biggest shopping spree yet...buying lots of great local art, crafts and clothes.
While Ecuador feels more developed than Peru, we were saddened by the sight of small children lining the scenic road to the town, hands clasped together in prayer, waiting for Christmas handouts to be thrown from the moving cars. We were shown that a child´s experience of Christmas can take on many forms, and were once again reminded of how fortunate we are.
In a couple of hours, we leave for Caracas which we hope will be an energetic city and an interesting Christmas expeience.
We guess that it is a good sign that we feel like there are things left unfinished in South America...
Happy Holidays, much love, Jim and Laura
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Adios Mancora, Peru | 12.19.01 @ 1:14 PM EST | |
Today is our last day in Peru. Tomorrow we will drive across the border to Guayaquil and catch a flight to Quito that same evening. We've been told that there is some good scenery on the way, and that Quito has much to offer. We have our doubts, but we'll let you know! Hopefully, at least there will be an internet cafe!! Hasta pronto! |
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What a birthday!! | 12.12.01 @ 2:01 PM EST |
It was a long jouney from Buenos Aires to Lima, where we spent the night before heading to Cusco. Although we found Cusco to be very beautiful, we were certain we'd arrived in a developing country. The contrast between the beautiful colonial squares with good restaurants, and the dozens of children approaching us begging for money or demanding that we buy their postcards was disorienting and disturbing. Machu Picchu was more touristed than we expected but we had a wonderful and very knowledgable guide. She was passionate about the history and mystery of the Inacs and was committed to educating about their remarkable resourcesfulness and culture.
After touring Cusco and Machu Picchu we headed for the coast of Peru. Mancora is a small fishing village that attracts many surfers but very few tourists. I rented a house via email from the States which Jim was very skeptical about. I told him to have faith and it paid off. It is truly beautiful - a quaint beach front villa. There I got a big birthday surprise. Jim said he was going into town for a small gift and he returned with Kathy!! I was sure I would die of a heart attack when she appeared suddenly and walked down the sandy pathway to our house.
We have been having an amazing time running on the beach, exploring, horseback riding, swimming, gabbing and best of all -- sharing the blessing of this trip. Just when I thought life couldn't get any better - leave it to Jim.
Until next time... gotta get to the beach.
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Catching up... | 12.2.01 @ 8:51 PM EST |
After procrastinating for so long, its hard to know where to start to describe what's been going on. I’ve had a variety of requests for pictures, so I hope the first batch has something for everyone. Without any apologies for enjoying myself so much that I forgot to write, here goes...
Brazil was a blast.
Itacare with its beautiful deserted beaches, warm water and gentle surf breaks was the right way to start. In Itacare we began to get a feel for the Brazilian spirit. Being greeted with a thumbs up, watching Capoeira and soccer on the sand all folded together to draw us in. Athleticism and simplicity seemed to be the way of life in this afro-brazilian fishing village becoming vacation spot.
Moving from the county to the big city of Rio provided an exciting contrast. Though Rio is a cosmopolitan city, it seemed to hold some of the same spirit we experienced in Itacare. People were actively enjoying the beaches that surround the city. Soccer as the national passion, was played everywhere. Soccer in the street, on the beach and even varieties such as foot-volley (volleyball with no hands) is played recreationally at an amazing level.
Rio’s economic and ethnic melting pot with the very rich and very poor living side by side provided another interesting contrast. Rio's famous favelas (slums) are on the hill sides with the best views of the city and the bay.
Our last Brazilian stops on its western edge showed us two more sides of the of 5th largest country in the world. Fazenda Rio Negro in the Pantanal revealed to us a level of biological diversity the seemed beyond belief. Even though it was very hot, very wet, and full of mosquitos, the awe of the nature made any discomfort fade into the background. Though a little to touristy for us, Bonito had its interesting moments. Floating down Caribbean blue rivers (colored by minerals) and repelling 225 feet into a cave to swim with the stalagmites and stalagtites was relaxing and exciting respectively.
I think the look of “what have you gotten me into” on Laura’s face was about the same exiting the plane into the heat and mosquitos of the Pantanal as it was hanging from a thin rope in the cave. Well, at least she did keep her eyes open in the Pantanal, and she was a real sport about the 6” tarantula that fell on her back from the roof of the cave :)
Sitting here 32,000 feet somewhere above Peru about to enter our third country in 5 days (we made a short and enjoyable stop in Buenos Aires) I do feel a little dazed. But thinking back on Brazil brings a smile to my face. I truly enjoyed the scenery, but most of all what stays with me is the remarkable sense of gentleness, activeness, and welcoming I experienced with the Brazilian people.
Let’s see what Peru conjures up... |
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Hasta Luego Argentina | 12.1.01 @ 5:47 PM EST | |
Today was a beautiful day in Buenos Aires, and we spent it walking around the city, and having lunch at an outdoor cafe. Although the city is very cosmopolitan and has lots to offer, there is a sense of need and it is clear that many are struggling in the poor economy. Later I went to the city's newest museum (called Malba) to see a wonderful collection of works all by Latin American artists-including Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Jim at that point went back to the hotel to post lots of pictures so you can see some of what we've seen so far. Tomorrow morning we're off to Peru on a 7:00 am flight to Lima, then Cusco , and Macchu Picchu. Enjjoy the photos!! Much love, L&J |
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